You went through Des Moines and you didn't see the Art Center?
That's what people said last year. How could I miss the Art Center? Maybe I was tired. Or maybe it was Monday.
So this time, we stopped. And yes, it's something to see. Another architectural triumph. Three amazing buildings, designed by Eliel Saarinen, I M Pei and Richard Meier and set in lush, green gardens. (You're looking at the Richard Meier bit) The art is amazing, too. Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse, Giacommetti, Georgia O'Keefe, wonderful things, gallery after gallery. To my surprise, the Art Center's award-winning restaurant is closed on Sundays. Luckily, I had one, last banana.
I'd selected a motel just off the exit ramp, for convenience. And guess what? The exit ramp was closed for construction, as were adjacent streets. Barbara (my name for the navigation system) had hysterics. She kept saying, Take the next right turn and then the second left turn. We went round in circles, three times. Barbara finally fell silent. Talk to me Barbara, I pleaded. Nothing. When the navigation system gives up, you know you're in trouble.
The other reason I'd picked this motel -- the Quality Inn -- was because it had a restaurant. "The best-kept secret in Iowa" they boast on their website. What they don't tell you is that it's closed on Sunday. I was so hungry by now that even Bao's Cesar Canine Cuisine was looking good. Maybe, I thought, with ketchup. Bao was horrified. There are boundaries, after all.
I knew if I went out, I'd never find my way back. And of course, I didn't. Not for hours. And then the air conditioner roared all night and left puddles on the carpet. At least there was a hot, buffet breakfast -- although the presiding Misery Chops looked daggers at me when I went back for a second helping of bacon.
By all means see the Art Center if you're in Des Moines.
Then keep going.